Wide open spaces, wild adventures: Yellowstone National Park’s glory
(Editor’s note: This column is part two of a two-part series.)
Next stop: Yellowstone.
Honestly, I doubted anything could top the awe-inspiring beauty of the Grand Tetons, but I was wrong. Yellowstone exceeded every expectation I had. I think I pictured it as overly commercialized and overrun with tourists, an impression that may have been shaped by all those childhood episodes of Yogi Bear and Boo-Boo stealing picnic baskets.
Speaking of picnic baskets, our first surprise in the park came when we watched a woman stop her car in the middle of the road, jump out with camera in hand, and chase a black bear through a wooded area causing the surprised animal to run straight toward a family enjoying a quiet picnic. I’m not entirely sure how that situation ended, but I certainly hope it ended better than it could have.
What surprised me most about Yellowstone was the incredible diversity of the scenery, weather, and wildlife. One moment we were driving under bright sunshine across wide open fields, and next we were standing at the rim of a canyon in several inches of snow, watching waterfalls plunging hundreds of feet over cliffs. One morning we awoke to temperatures of just 16 degrees with blowing snow while back home in central Pennsylvania, people were sweltering in temperatures in the 90s.
The park’s most unique features had to be its hydrothermal geysers and hot springs, and they were everywhere. Yellowstone contains more than 10,000 hydrothermal features, and at times we could see several simultaneously puffing steam and gases into the air. No two seemed alike. Each varied in color, size, and attributes.
The most famous of these is, of course, Old Faithful, the park’s iconic geyser that erupts roughly every 90 minutes. During an eruption, it launches between 4,000 and 8,000 gallons of boiling water an average height of 145 feet into the air. Another fascinating fact: some of the early explorers in the late 1800s reportedly used Old Faithful to wash their laundry. Apparently, the cottons and linens cleaned up nicely, but the wool garments were shredded. Who knew?
Another unforgettable sight was the most photographed feature in Yellowstone, The Grand Prismatic Spring. It is the largest hot spring in the park and the third largest in the world. The overlook provides a breathtaking view of this rainbow-colored natural wonder. We were fortunate enough to visit in the spring when the colors are said to be the most vivid. It was truly amazing.
Then there was Dragon’s Mouth Spring. It truly resembled a giant open mouth, periodically spewing steam followed by bubbling boiling water. It didn’t require much imagination to understand how it got its name. The entire scene felt eerie and downright otherworldly.
Can you imagine being one of the first explorers to discover these hydrothermal features? Think of the letters they must have written home:
“Dear Wife, There are boiling pits in the ground all around me, launching steam high into the sky, and oh, the smell! Wish you were here. Your loving husband.”
Our favorite section of the park, however, was Lamar Valley. Known as one of the top wildlife-viewing spots in the United States, it absolutely lived up to its reputation. We made the 53-mile drive from the park’s western entrance to Lamar Valley every evening during our stay. Trust me it was worth every mile. The wildlife was so plentiful, it felt as though we were driving through a zoo with no cages.
There we saw literally thousands of bison, some of which blocked the roadway and created the famous “bison jams.” Others lumbered slowly alongside our vehicle, many with spring calves wobbling along close behind them on unsteady legs. They were simply magnificent.
Herds of elk were plentiful as well, which isn’t surprising considering Yellowstone is home to more than 10,000 of them.
Then there were the bears. Black bears, cinnamon-colored black bears, and grizzlies. We were fortunate enough to see them all, 17 bears in total. The most memorable encounter came when we sat quietly in the grass watching a mature grizzly sow named Barrel. She is somewhat of a Yellowstone celebrity with many avid followers. I found myself seated beside one of her faithful admirers who regaled me with stories about Barrel and her cubs. I felt incredibly privileged to be there, witnessing such a graceful yet powerful animal in her natural habitat.
Another memorable sighting came when a red fox strolled past our car as we sat stopped along the road. He moved with complete ease, seemingly unfazed by us, trotting along as though the road belonged entirely to him.
We also paused countless times to photograph pronghorns grazing in the fields, their distinctive white markings making them easy to identify. I also learned they are the fastest land mammal in the United States, capable of reaching speeds up to 55 miles per hour.
The moose proved a little more difficult to find, but we eventually spotted several, including one enormous bull with massive antlers, also known as paddles, still covered in velvet. He made a stunning sight standing in an open field with a backdrop of tall pines.
What surprised me most, though, was how quickly Yellowstone began to feel like home and how difficult it was to leave.
But eventually, alas, we headed towards home, carrying with us memories of steaming geysers, snow-covered canyons, and wild animals roaming free beneath endless western skies.
This adventure may have come to an end, but just around the corner, the next one is already taking shape. Keep your proverbial suitcase packed, soon we’ll be back on the road again and I look forward to sharing it with you.
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Rhonda S. Kelley is the executive director of the Juniata River Valley Chamber of Commerce.

