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Wide open spaces and wild adventures: The Grand Tetons

(Editor’s note: This column is part one of a two-part series.)

I had two songs playing in my head throughout this past week, and soon you’ll understand why. The first was the song made famous by Johnny Cash and June Carter Cash entitled “Jackson.” The second was “Wide Open Spaces” by The Chicks. Together, those songs perfectly sum up my latest adventure.

In our quest to visit as many national parks as possible, my husband, Blain, and I recently packed our bags and headed to the airport, bound for Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect, and perhaps that made the trip even more exciting. We traveled without a specific agenda, simply ready for adventure.

Our first surprise came before we ever reached the mountains. Not only was our flight on time, but we were unexpectedly upgraded to first class not once, but twice on both legs of our outgoing trip. We are used to sitting with the common folk, so we felt thoroughly pampered as we were offered unlimited beverages served in real glasses, warm hand towels, and full meals. My immediate thought was, “So this is how the other half flies!” I don’t think I’ll ever walk past the first-class section again without at least one lingering, longing glance.

Our first stop was Jackson Hole, which would serve as our home base while exploring the Tetons. After unpacking, we wandered through the downtown streets and were instantly captivated by the town’s nostalgic western atmosphere. It was easy to understand why Jackson Hole has become a favorite of hikers, mountain bikers, skiers, fly fishermen, photographers, and adventurers of every kind.

You didn’t have to look far to spot the town’s western influence. It began with the massive elk antler arches, where the obligatory tourist photo had to be taken, and continued throughout town with one storefront boldly proclaiming, “The World Needs More Cowboys.” Honestly, it’s hard to argue with that.

After dinner at the famous Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, a true experience with authentic leather saddle bar stools and walls filled with history, we learned that countless legendary country musicians had performed there over the years, including Waylon Jennings, Willie Nelson, Glen Campbell, and Clint Black to name a few. The bar even appeared prominently in the 1980 film “Any Which Way You Can” starring Clint Eastwood.

The next morning, our real adventure began as we entered Grand Teton National Park. I should mention that our gear for the day included winter coats, gloves, and warm hats, as we woke up to temperatures in the twenties. But despite the cold, nothing could have prepared me for the moment I first saw those majestic, snow-capped mountains.

There were tears. Real, overwhelming tears. I stood mesmerized, completely speechless, simply staring at the towering peaks before me. My poor husband spent much of the day pulling over so I could capture “just one more photo,” because every turn somehow revealed a view even more stunning than the last, even though none truly captured its grandeur. I was also fascinated to learn that the park contains 11 glaciers, tucked high along the shaded sides of its tallest peaks.

After stopping at Mormon Row Historic District, home to the iconic rustic barn with the perfect backdrop of the Teton Range, we arrived at our first major hike: the famous Jenny Lake Loop. Often considered some of the best hiking in Wyoming, the trail absolutely lived up to its reputation.

The hike offered a little bit of everything: breathtaking lake views from Inspiration Point, rushing waterfalls, and wildlife around nearly every corner. Up close and personal, we spotted a moose happily chewing Aspen leaves, an elk resting quietly among the trees, a mother bear with her cub, a beaver, a small herd of pronghorn, and even a marmot.

By day’s end, we had logged more than ten miles, much of it with snow blowing directly into our faces and sections of trail still covered in ice and snow. Not bad for day one. Our legs were exhausted, but our hearts were full.

We turned in early that evening because our next adventure required a very early start. The plan was simple: wake at 5:30 a.m., grab coffee from the newly discovered Cowboy Coffee shop the moment it opened at 6:00 a.m., and head toward our next trail, the popular Taggart Lake Trail.

The next morning, we were the very first car in the parking lot. Bear spray securely strapped on, we headed out into the quiet wilderness. The trail wound through open meadows dotted with early spring wildflowers while the towering Tetons rose dramatically above us. Everywhere we looked revealed another postcard-worthy view.

Then came one of those moments that will stay with us forever. As we rounded a corner, there before us sat a pristine lake, perfectly still and crystal clear, reflecting the mountains like a mirror. We stood there in complete silence, stunned by the beauty before us. There wasn’t another person anywhere in sight. In fact, we hiked for hours without seeing another soul. For that moment in time, this beauty belonged only to us, and we soaked in every second of it.

Deciding we weren’t quite ready for the experience to end, we extended our hike to Bradley Lake, adding another 2.2 miles. The combined hike should have totaled just under six miles, but an unexpected trail closure forced us to retrace our steps, bringing the day’s total to nearly 12 miles.

And don’t forget, we had already completed ten miles the day before. While we do visit the gym regularly, nothing truly prepares you for the challenge of uneven, rocky mountain trails. By the following morning, this girl’s right knee was staging a full-on rebellion.

Still, I did what any nature lover would do: I hobbled onward. After all, the next stop on our journey was Yellowstone National Park.

Stay tuned for part two as we repack our bags and head deeper into the wild wonders of Yellowstone.

Rhonda S. Kelley is the executive director of the Juniata River Valley Chamber of Commerce.

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