Stepping through time: Hiking Indian Steps Trail
The first Saturday in June, today, June 7 — is National Trails Day, a time set aside to encourage everyone to get outside and explore and maintain the many scenic trails we’re fortunate to have right in our own backyard. In celebration, I’d love to share one of my all-time favorite local hikes with you.
I especially enjoy bringing my dogs along on my outdoor adventures. In case you haven’t met them, I have a ten-year-old labradoodle named Finley and a seven-year-old (and quite large) standard poodle named Murphy. Many of you probably have met them since they come to work with me most days. In fact, I’m fairly certain more people stop in the office to see them than to see me. I’m not sure how I feel about that, but I digress.
One of the most interesting, scenic, and historic trails I’ve ever hiked is the Indian Steps Trail, located in Spruce Creek Valley, about 37 miles from Lewistown. It is definitely worth the drive. Some hikers have described it as being moderately challenging, but in my opinion, there’s nothing moderate about it! It is downright tough! The trail begins with a steep climb, heading straight up the side of Tussey Mountain, gaining about 600 feet of elevation in less than half a mile. That’s straight up, folks. The “steps” begin as logs but gradually become rough stone as you near the summit. I can assure you there was plenty of huffing and puffing involved, but eventually, I made it to the top.
According to renowned American folklorist and storyteller, Henry Shoemaker, legend holds that these steps were originally created by Native Americans, hence the trail’s name. Shoemaker wrote, “The steps were made, so tradition states, to enable Indian warriors from the southern part of the state to quickly cross the mountain when they invaded their northern rivals.” He believed that one of the bloodiest battles between the Lenni Lenape, who lived in this area, and the Susquehannocks, who lived along the Susquehanna River, took place near this trail, and included these very steps.
As I climbed, I could almost hear the soft thudding of Susquehannock warriors’ leather moccasins against the stone, swift and determined. In my mind’s eye, I pictured their ghostly figures moving quickly, and stealthily, dressed in bear and wolf skins, bows slung over their shoulders, eyes fixed on the trail ahead. I couldn’t help but wonder what thoughts filled their minds as they raced toward battle, and possibly death.
As I crested the summit, I was greeted not by enemies, but by a large pile of rocks, possibly the remains of a furnace or old structure. I am not sure what it was for, but it definitely caught my eye and was photoworthy. From there, we hiked along the rocky ridge, careful not to turn an ankle, and took in the sweeping views of the valleys below. I stood there with my arms outstretched, letting the wind whip through my hair, fully engaged in the feeling of freedom and connection with nature that enveloped me. I finished the day exhausted, but at the same time rejuvenated.
Whether you’re in it for the exercise, the scenery, or the stories carved into the landscape, the Indian Steps Trail offers a rugged but rewarding step back in time. On this National Trails Day, I encourage you to lace up your hiking boots, grab a water bottle (and maybe your favorite four-legged friend), and discover the history hiding in our mountains and valleys. We have so many wonderful trails to explore. For me hiking is an opportunity to put down my phone, quiet my ruminating thoughts, and bask in the peace and quiet around me. John Muir, the Scottish-born naturalist who helped create Yosemite and other national parks, once said it best: “Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.”
If you would like more information about local trails, stop by the Juniata River Valley Visitors Bureau, located in the historic courthouse on the square in downtown Lewistown.
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Rhonda S. Kelley is the executive director of the Juniata River Valley Chamber of Commerce.